Basics

Mechanically, a weathervane is simple. The challenge lies in constructing the vane to endure adverse climate throughout decades of use. Although occasionally made of wood, copper and brass are most commonly used due to their excellent ability to be shaped and to withstand some of the worst weather conditions. Tin, stainless steel, cast bronze, and aluminum are also used—and, recently, titanium. Steel should only be used when thoroughly prepared, to avoid rust.

A weathervane's ornament should be slightly tail-heavy, with the greatest wind resistance behind the spindle (axis point) so that it turns into the oncoming wind, which predicts approaching weather. It should rotate on a solid single-bearing surface; complex bearing mechanisms cause potential problems and are difficult to repair. The average weathervane sold today consists of a post, compass points, and figure. An arrow may or may not be part of this figure. There may be a ring to support the lower globe on the post. Mounting hardware is often sold separately. The popular cast-aluminum vanes, however, come standard with a choice of mounting brackets. The compass points with the N, S, E, and W directional markers should be present, otherwise, it is a wind vane. Derived from the union of weathervanes with lightning rods, a pair of copper "globes" may be included. These serve only aesthetic purposes. Old lightning rods utilized glass globes for ornamentation, a practice that was unique to them. When weathervanes copied the idea, they did so in copper only. Ferro Weathervanes is the first ornamental weathervane company to introduce the glass ball to the weathervane. Click here to learn more.

Contrary to popular belief, weathervane theft is rare, but simple theft-deterrent devices are available. (If the piece is highly valuable, it can be itemized in the homeowners' insurance policy.) Every artist and company has its own locking-device design; there is no industry standard. Locking devices protect the figure only, based on the assumption that no one will risk the time involved to remove the entire assembly. A clip or strategic bolt retaining the figure on the spindle is the most common tactic. However, these devices are only mild deterrents and usually used with figures that may take flight, such as birds with outstretched wings and airplanes. Electronic alarms have been custom fabricated in some special cases. Over all, due to their highly visible location, theft is risky, and reports have shown that mounted antique weathervanes are often targeted due to their immense value and collectibility.

Use the following rule of thumb to size a weathervane: the length or width of the vane, whichever is greater, should equal one inch per foot of roof-line, and slightly larger if an arrow is part of the design.

Paint and clear finishes can be used on almost any material but are temporary, although baked enamel on aluminum has been known to last 15 years. No clear coating will preserve a copper finish without regular maintenance. Machine-pressed weathervanes are offered with a verdigris or polished-copper finish. The polished finish will last only until rained on. As with all copper, it will then turn dull brown and eventually verdigris. Salt air or pollution can expedite this process. Bronze patina is a treatment that turns copper golden brown and effectively highlights detailed figures; it is also temporary. The best available finish for aesthetic quality and weather resistance is 23karat gold leaf; it contains few impurities and will not rust or tarnish. (It is also the most expensive.) Gold leaf also retains its shine and integrity on a copper vane for at least 30 years, highlights lines and contours dramatically, and produces an eye-catching gleam on a sunny day.

If properly constructed, a weathervane should require no maintenance other than lubrication every five to ten years. Fine white lithium grease is best. Never over-pack the spindle tube. Apply grease conservatively to the spindle; if the area is over-packed, it will not allow metal dust—created by the friction of the revolving vane to escape, the grease will thicken and eventually cause the vane to stop rotating. Serious damage will result.

© 1997 David Ferro